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Auctionbytes-Update, Number 6 - January 22, 2000 - ISSN 1528-6703
Collector's Corner
1) Primer on Condition of Stamps: Physical Defects and Space Fillers
By John Kirsner
Many elements must be considered in determining the condition, or "grade" of a stamp. I will attempt to run through several basic concepts relevant to grade in a series of articles. The first issue that I will tackle relates to stamps with physical defects.
Major Physical Defects
Perhaps the most basic issue to consider when grading a stamp is identifying whether the stamp has a physical defect. Examples of stamps with major physical defects include: when a portion of the stamp has been torn off; an internal tear exists; or if the surface has been scraped off of the stamp. These types of stamps are often called "space-fillers," "seconds" or "defective." A defective stamp may have some value depending on the scarcity of the stamp. However, as a general rule, the investment value of a defective stamp is low.
For example, most stamp catalogues state that the 5 cent brown US #1, used, in nice condition, has a value of between $550-700. Recently on eBay, two examples with major defects sold. The first example, with a tear that had been closed, sold for $115. The second example, with a medium size piece that had been torn away, sold for $111. Of course, US #1 is one of the most highly prized stamps in the world and is a centerpiece of many collections. Thus, as eBay pricing demonstrates, even a stamp with a major defect can sell for perhaps 15-20% of the value of a nice specimen.
On the other hand, the 3 cent blue 1869 pictorial issue, US #114 (picturing a locomotive), used, in decent condition, sells for less than $10. Notwithstanding the age of this stamp, it is relatively common. Thus, a badly defective specimen may in fact have no value at all.
Other Defects
Other common, yet less noticeable, physical defects exist. First, some of the perforated edges of a stamp may be missing. This condition is called "pulled perfs." Second, when a stamp is removed roughly from a letter or from a stamp album, a portion of the back of the stamp may rip off and be left on the letter or album page. This defect is termed a "thin." A collector can see if a stamp has a thin by holding the stamp up to a strong light; the light will shine more strongly through the area of the stamp where the thin exists. Third, the stamp may be creased. Fourth, the stamp may have a pinhole in it. Other physical defects exist as well.
While less noticeable, all of the above examples are physical defects. As a result, the grade of a stamp with such a defect will be adversely affected, generally depending on the severity of the defect. For example, a stamp may be so heavily or repeatedly creased that it falls in the category of major defect. Yet, a stamp may have a tiny thin that is nearly impossible to see; such a stamp, that is otherwise beautiful, may, depending on scarcity, be quite valuable.
One last point: defective stamps can be fun and collectable! Many stamp collectors are "snobs" when it comes to condition and would not think of purchasing or displaying a stamp with a major physical defect. However, as we have seen, such stamps may be obtained inexpensively compared to their defect-free brethren. Also, even when a stamp is not highly prized (such as that 3 cent pictorial discussed above), it may still be very meaningful. And you could consider donating your older defective stamps to a local stamp club for children to collect.
Next time I will talk about the physical appearance, including centering.
2) Sports: Where to Begin?
By Wayne Tuiskula
Most people probably think of baseball cards when they think about sports collectibles, but there is much more to consider. Items from the more mainstream sports like baseball, basketball, football and hockey will always be sought after by collectors. Other collectors are just as zealous in their pursuit of golf, tennis, auto racing, boxing and other sports collectibles.
Targeting In On Your Interest
When you target a specific sport, you may want to narrow it down even further. Do you want to collect only cards, autographs or memorabilia? Do you want to buy cards of the current players or cards that you might have owned when you were younger? Do you want to concentrate on a certain player or team?
If you aren't interested in cards or if you want to supplement your card collection with other sports collectibles, you've got a lot of options. In baseball alone you can collect cards, autographs, equipment (balls, bats, gloves, etc.), postcards, trophies, books, pennants, stamps, pins, tickets, magazines, programs, medallions, photos and yearbooks.
Foul Ball: Fakes & Forgeries
There is one very important thing to remember as you begin to collect. There are reproductions and fakes in sports collectibles like most other areas of collecting. Autographs are often faked. I saw a boxing glove on eBay once -the description said it had been signed by Jack Dempsey. Whoever signed it forgot the second "e" in Dempsey.
Tin advertising signs are often reproduced picturing sports celebrities. There are forged cards on the market too. When I'm not sure about something, I would rather pass on it then pay good money for a fake. You can avoid this by dealing with a knowledgeable, reputable dealer.
Please send along information on any fakes or reproductions you see, and I'll be glad to add it to this column and keep everyone informed. Also, feel free to send along suggestions for future columns to me at tuiskula@tiac.net.
3) Roseville Pottery
By Natalie Elliott Larson
Back in 1984, I went to an antique show, where I spotted a cute little green vase. It was to change my life (and my bank account) forever.
That piece, marked Roseville, led me to buy a couple of books. The books showed me other Roseville patterns, which were equally beguiling. Some 200 pieces later, I'm still buying!
Roseville was founded in 1890 in Roseville, Ohio, and remained in business until 1954. It is one of the most collectible, available, and copied companies in the business. There were over 150 lines produced, some of which had up to 175 pieces in various colors.
Roseville used local clays from the Zanesville area, so the pieces all show a "buff" colored base. The fakes currently being imported from overseas are of a whiter clay or slip. The other outstanding feature of real Roseville is the glaze. Softly blended but vibrant colors are fired into the pots.
There are three things to look for when buying: color, sharpness of mold and condition. If you are serious, start with a couple of books so you will know what you are doing. Many excellent reference books on Roseville have been published, with more in the offing. A beginner should have Bomm's Book - Roseville in All Its Splendor. There are many others on the market, but this is a good starting point.
Any reputable seller will be glad to point you in the right direction. My best advice to you is to buy what you love. You will cherish it, and it's better than money in the bank, since the value of quality pieces goes up every year.
My favorite Web site is Ebay.com - there are generally about 1,500 pieces of Roseville on line at any time. For info about the fakes on the market, try ~~~www.inch.com/~kteneyck/roseville.html.
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