Here is the second part of Michele Alice's interview with Leslie Paisley of the Williamstown Art Conservation Center.
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It's wonderful to buy something new, and-with careful attention to preventive maintenance-keep it looking new. But what if you have an old poster coated with dirt? Or a comic book that has begun to show its age? When I recently spoke with Leslie Paisley, the Conservator of Paper at the Williamstown Art Conservation Center in Massachusetts, I asked her if the average collector could perform minor repairs on such objects.
It's always best, Leslie advised, to seek professional help, because "half of good preservation is being able to identify materials and their properties. And what might be considered a minor collectible today and worth the risk, could be worth much more in the future." As an example, she showed me a Shaker drawing that she was in the process of conserving. "That was bought for just $7. It's now worth hundreds of thousands [of dollars]."
Keeping in mind that professional help is always the best option, Leslie did have a few tips for our readers, the first being to "avoid all tapes!" She pointed out a study being conducted by her department in which various pieces of scotch tape had been applied to the pages of a book, and--after timed intervals of 5, 10, 15, etc. minutes-- the pieces had been partially lifted to determine the effects. All had resulted in some degree of damage to the paper and print.
In addition, scotch tape is not stable, but cracks and discolors over time. "I recently worked on a baseball that had Babe Ruth's signature," Leslie explained. "The owner had covered the signature with scotch tape to protect it so it could be handled. I was able to remove the carrier [backing], but the same solvents that could have removed the residue would have also removed the ink of the signature."
So, if scotch tape is out, what can be used to repair a tear? "Wheat-starch paste and Japanese tissue [paper] of the appropriate thickness." Leslie explained that the paste is basically a mixture of wheat starch and distilled water "which I then cook just like a Hollandaise sauce." The paste and a piece of Japanese tissue are then applied over the tear. When dry, the repair is almost transparent (if the right thickness of tissue has been used), yet strong. This method has the added benefit that it is reversible (the paste is water-soluble) and stable over many years. Leslie advised cooking only as much as needed for each repair as the paste should be fresh to avoid developing mold. (The University Products catalog has a microwave version of the recipe.)
Leslie then moved on to the subject of dirt and dust. In the case of everyday surface dust, Leslie suggested using a good, soft brush made of goat hair. The brush should be kept clean by rinsing with alcohol and then allowing to air dry.
If the dirt is imbedded, Leslie said an art gum eraser is fine on most objects, except some old photographs (due to the eraser's sulfur content), as long as it is fresh and has not hardened and become abrasive. She said a dry-cleaning sponge, made to be used dry, not wet, is even better, as she likes to cut off a small piece for each specific job and then throw it away in case it has picked up any abrasive particles. (This item is also readily available through archival and conservation supply catalogs.)
Stains-water, mud, etc.-usually require "wet treatment" wherein the object is partially or wholly immersed in a water or chemical bath, a procedure best left to a professional.
And what about that old comic book that has lost its pristine color? In the case of high-acid papers, Leslie said little can be done. "I've heard of a high-end comic [that had yellowed] being disassembled and placed in a bath [i.e., given wet treatment] to bring it back somewhat," Leslie said, "but it's an expensive process, and it doesn't prevent the aging process from resuming."
If you're interested in learning the complete results of the scotch tape test, you can subscribe to the WACC newsletter by writing to them at the address below. It's published twice a year, it's full of all kinds of helpful information (such as NOT wrapping silver objects in bubble wrap), and it's FREE!
RESOURCES:
University Products, 517 Main Street, Holyoke, MA 01041, 1.800.628.1912http://www.universityproducts.com
Williamstown Art Conservation Center
225 South Street
Williamstown, Massachusetts 01267.
Note that the center offers conservation services to members, non-members and individuals. Conservation treatment and consultation in the laboratory costs $88/hour for individuals (plus photography and supplies). On-site treatment is available.
