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Some collectors blame Little Lulu for the decline of the handkerchief. Drafted as an advertising icon in the 1940's, the popular cartoon character touted the benefits of using disposable Kleenex tissues, and sales soared. But cloth "hankies" had been losing ground to paper since 1924, when Kleenex tissues were first marketed as cold-cream removers. Almost immediately, germophobic consumers began using the disposables, instead, to blow their noses.
The handkerchief was doomed.
Actually, hankies live on - in some cultures around the globe; as fashion statements (the "pocket square" found in a suit-jacket breast pocket and the "bandana" displaying a gang member's allegiance are both handkerchiefs); and as affordable collectibles.
Defined as a square of cloth used to wipe the nose, mouth, or eyes, the better hankies were usually made of cotton, silk, or linen. But it is the sheer variety of patterning and decoration that endears hankies to collectors today.
Embroidered, appliqued, trimmed with lace - collectible hankies resemble nothing so much as miniature quilt tops. Like quilts, hankies are judged by condition, age, the fineness of the machine or hand-sewn stitching, the quality of the cloth, and the aesthetic quality of the design. Desirability can also depend on whether the collector is specializing in a particular design. Some collectors, for example, look only for Valentine hankies, or floral patterns, or their initials.
Most vintage hankies can be found online or at yard or estate sales for just a few dollars, but particularly nice specimens can command prices from $20 or $30 each up to several thousand for the rarer examples, like the 1912 Titanic memorial hanky that recently sold for $399 at an online auction, and the early 19th Century printed cotton hanky that fetched $1800! And don't forget hanky-related items like old magazine ads, dispensers, and store displays that often sell for comparable prices.
Like men's ties, even hankies of little collectible value are often sold, usually in lots, for use in crafts, like making dolls, clothing, quilts, etc. These are generally referred to as "hobby hankies," so don't pass up a great deal should you come across a large box of hankies at a rummage sale. You can still make a tidy profit online.
Finally, because collectible hankies are categorized as vintage fabrics, the same care should be taken when cleaning, storing, and displaying your collection. If framed for display, avoid direct sunlight and humid conditions. Use acid-free archival-quality boxes and tissue for storage. If soiled, use the same cleaning instructions available for similar vintage cloth.
But most of all, enjoy your collection!
For more information on this popular collectible, the following resources are recommended:
Books
"Children's Handkerchiefs: A Two-Hundred-Year History," by J. J. Murphy
http://tinyurl.com/ypc8lp
"The Handkerchief (The Twentieth Century Histories of Fashion Series)," by Paolo Peri
http://tinyurl.com/23sj35
"Handkerchiefs: A Collector's Guide," by Helene Guarnaccia, Barbara Guggenheim
http://tinyurl.com/2agdmt
"Hanky Panky: An Intimate History of the Handkerchief," by Helen Gustafson, Jonathan Chester
http://tinyurl.com/24a5hm
"Hooked on Hankies," by Janet Carruth, Laurene Sinema, Suzanne McNeill
http://tinyurl.com/2enxc9
"Printed & Lace Handkerchiefs: Interpreting a Popular 20th Century Collectible," by Betty Wilson
http://tinyurl.com/yp4vvx
Websites
Kleenex Tissues Advertising
http://michelesworld.net/dmm2/lulu/kleenex.htm
Illustrated look at the Kleenex - Little Lulu advertising campaign.
Neckties.com
http://www.neckties.com/foldinginfo.php
This page illustrates the numerous ways a pocket square may be folded.
OldHankies.com
http://vancewilson.com/OldHankies/ohdefault.htm
Autographed copies of Betty Wilson's book, Printed & Lace Handkerchiefs: Interpreting a Popular 20th Century Collectible, are for sale at her website.
The Sydney Morning Herald
http://tinyurl.com/24hf8e
Andrew Hamilton's opinion piece on hankies is a must read!
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