"I wanna go where the money's free Hollywood is a callin' me
Oh what a great big star I'll be in a pair of cowboy boots."
- "Cowboy Boots" (1963): Artist: Dave Dudley; Written by: Baker Knight
An American version of the northern European riding boot, the cowboy boot evolved in the post-Civil War period when bootmakers were forced to adapt traditional designs to meet the unique demands of cattle ranching.
From utilitarian footwear to symbol of the American West to fashion statement - the cowboy boot has long enjoyed popularity, not only in the United States, but also around the globe. Throughout the early and mid 20th Century, first motion pictures and then television helped to promulgate the ideal of the ruggedly individualistic cowboy as depicted by early western stars such as Williams S. Hart and Tom Mix and, later, John Wayne and James Arness ("Gunsmoke"). Cowboy boots were an integral part of that iconic image.
Over the decades, demand for western footwear has waxed and waned with popular culture. There was a resurgence in interest in 1980 with the release of "Urban Cowboy" starring John Travolta, and again in 2005 when Jessica Simpson appeared in "The Dukes of Hazzard." And cowboy boots remain in vogue to this day due primarily to the popularity of country music.
Whether vintage or new, several factors influence retail and auction prices:
Factory or custom made? Generally, custom indicates quality, not quantity.
Materials? Are they made of leather, or of a rarer skin like alligator, elephant, or python?
Signed? Though most boots today are signed, it is not impossible to identify the makers of vintage boots. Bootmakers would often create their own distinctive stitched designs that they would repeat as a kind of "signature."
Is the maker a recognized designer? Just as in the art world, an item signed by a famous bootmaker, such as Paul Bond, is worth more than the same item signed by "John Smith."
Condition? If not properly cared for, leather will dry out and crack or mold or rot. And though it's possible to replace parts, such as having a boot top sewn to a new shoe (bottom), it's better to prevent the damage in the first place. (Of course, it is perfectly normal to replace worn soles.)
Design? Boots can be seemingly quite plain, or riotously ornate with different colors, finishes, inlays, overlays, stitching, and beading depicting everything from flowers or geometric patterns to animals or comets! For example, in 1953, President Eisenhower was presented with a pair of boots decorated with sunflowers, the Great Seal of the United States, and the Capitol Building (http://www.archives.gov/exhibits/tokens_and_treasures/presidents/dwight_eisenhower.html). The price of a pair of boots will reflect the unique and aesthetic qualities of the design.
Where can vintage boots be found? While many online and brick-and-mortar booteries offer vintage boot sections, many an estate sale has been the setting for valuable finds. And don't forget your local thrift shop! A local eBayer recently happened upon a pair of cowboy boots at the Goodwill. She paid $5, and sold them online for $400!
For more information on this popular collectible, the following resources are recommended:
"Western Bootmaking: An American Tradition," by D. W. Frommer II
This book is currently unavailable from Amazon.com, but can be ordered from Frommer's website at http://www.bootmaker.com
Cowboy Boots - The Cowboy Boots Web Page http://www.dimlights.com/boots/#TOP
Jennifer June's site offers a directory of custom bootmakers, bulletin board (forum), how a boot is made, a look at different stitching, more.
Forbes.com http://tinyurl.com/qkk64
This article on the "Most Expensive Cowboys Boots" features a slide show of contemporary custom-made boots.
Texas State House Resolution
making cowboy boots the official state footwear. Interesting and informative. http://tinyurl.com/2o3y3y
About the author:
Michele Alice is AuctionBytes-Update Contributing Editor. Michele is a freelance writer in the Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts. She collects books, science fiction memorabilia and more! Email her at makalice @ adelphia.net eBay ID: Malice9
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