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Auctionbytes-Update, Number 213 - April 20, 2008 - ISSN 1528-6703     Previous Story | Contents | Next Story


Collector's Corner: Vintage Sewing Patterns
By Michele Alice
AuctionBytes.com

April 20, 2008
Reading AuctionBytes: Collector's Corner: Vintage Sewing Patterns

Ten dollars? $20? $50? For old tissue paper?

It would seem unlikely, but if that "old tissue paper" is a collectible sewing pattern, then prices even higher than stated should not surprise.

Ellen Curtis Demorest is credited with the creation of the first tissue-paper sewing patterns. These were distributed in her husband's publication "Mme. Demorest's Quarterly Mirror of Fashions" beginning in 1860, and are so rare that almost all of today's collectors have experienced them only as reproductions.

The next great leap forward occurred in 1863 when Ebeneezer Butterick developed sewing patterns in different sizes. Time- and labor-savers, they allowed almost anyone to easily create fashionable garments for themselves or family members. Early Butterick patterns are also extremely rare and can command prices into the hundreds of dollars.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the creation of many pattern companies. Some, such as Vogue, Butterick, Simplicity and McCall's, survive to this day, while others either eventually closed shop or were swallowed by competitors. Advance, Hollywood, and Spadea are just three no longer in production, but are favored by collectors. Hollywood patterns, considered cross-collectibles since they featured famously glamorous stars on their envelopes, can command up to $85+ in the secondary market.

Condition, as always, influences value. A pattern that has not been cut, possesses all pieces, and retains its instructions and envelope is always worth more than the same pattern without all these attributes.

But not every old pattern, even in good condition, is necessarily worth more than a few dollars. In the realm of patterns, style counts. A 1930's pattern for a plain dress will not hold the same allure for collectors as, for example, the 1970's Chester Weinberg that just sold on the net for $46.67, or the 1950's Claire McCardell designer that recently fetched $102.50 at an online auction.

So who, in addition to the collectors of ephemera, purchases old patterns? Many people enjoy making and wearing vintage-style clothing, while others seek out period patterns for theatrical companies, re-enactments, and motion-picture-studio costume departments.

If you are interested in learning more about this fascinating collectible, the following resources are invaluable:

Books

"Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1940s," by Wade Laboissonniere
http://tinyurl.com/5rnjmw

"Blueprints of Fashion: Home Sewing Patterns of the 1950s," by Wade Laboissonniere
http://tinyurl.com/6p9wae

"Encyclopedia of Children's Sewing Collectibles: Identification & Values: Sewing Sets, Dolls, Books, Patterns," by Darlene J. Gengelbach
http://tinyurl.com/62w7ju

"Very Vintage: The Guide to Vintage Patterns and Clothing," by Karen Savage
http://tinyurl.com/5ela4a

Websites

History of Butterick
http://www.butterick.com/bhc/pages/articles/histpgs/about.html
Official company account.

Cemetarian.com
http://www.cemetarian.com/index.php?pr=Patterns
Check out the pattern company histories and "About Sizing Vintage Patterns."

Historic Overlook Community Club
http://overlookcc.org/demorest.htm
Fascinating info on Ellen Demorest.

Issey Miyake Patterns
http://groehm.tripod.com/miyake
This site shows the 69 patterns by Miyake for Vogue up to Spring 2000.

Main Street Vintage
http://www.mainstreetvintage.com/lisa/patterninfo.html
"Vintage Pattern Cheat Sheet": tips, pics, histories.

Pattern Rescue
http://www.patternrescue.com
This site is dedicated to "restoring and preserving vintage sewing patterns." Have an incomplete pattern? You might be able to get free replacement pieces!

Vintage Fashion Guild
http://www.vintagefashionguild.org/content/view/608/75
Informative site offers history, tips on condition, and more.

Vintagestitching.com
http://www.vintagestitching.com
Check out the section on tips for dating old patterns.

About the author:

Michele Alice is AuctionBytes-Update Contributing Editor. Michele is a freelance writer in the Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts. She collects books, science fiction memorabilia and more! Email her at makalice @ adelphia.net eBay ID: Malice9



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