Although cosmetics had been used since ancient times, the powder compact did not arrive on the scene until the beginning of the 20th Century. Evolving from small boxes of loose face powder, compacts satisfied the need for portability as society became literally more mobile and women began to enter the workforce in ever greater numbers. Influenced by movie stars and fashion plates, everyone wanted to "look their best" at all times, and that meant being able to quickly and easily freshen their makeup several times a day. Compacts helped to serve that purpose.
By the 1920's and 30's, compacts were offered in such variety that they could speak to the taste of almost any individual. Art Deco designs were particularly popular, as were exotic images based upon Egyptian motifs. Bakelite, shell, silver, and gold were just a few of the materials used in the manufacture of the cases.
Even World War II could not curtail the compact, though most metals were necessarily replaced with materials like wood and plastic. It was not until the Sixties, with its emphasis on the "natural" look, that the compact was demoted to a mostly utilitarian object.
Today, the compact is no longer regarded as a "fashion accessory," and very few manufacturers still produce distinctive designs.
Fortunately, though, so many of the older compacts have survived that they offer a generally affordable field for the collector. Many fine examples can still be purchased for just a few dollars at yard sales and flea markets. More can be found at online auctions and retailers where prices range from a few dollars for the more common pieces to several thousand for extremely rare or intrinsically valuable examples. Italian "800" compacts, for example, are valued both for their silver content (80%) and for the hand-painted miniature paintings that adorn them, and they usually sell online for several hundred dollars each.
Condition, of course, plays a major role in determining value. The hinge or hinges should be tight and in working order. The mirror should be original and unbroken. There should be as few chips, scratches, or other flaws as possible. And if the compact retains its original puff, screen, labeling, and packaging, expect its value to skyrocket.
The only times you might wish to invest in a flawed specimen would be:
a) if the compact is so rare that you're unlikely to find another, or
b) you wish to fill a gap in your collection until a better example comes along, or
c) you want to use the parts to repair an identical compact.
This last is important, especially as it pertains to mirrors. Mirrors in old compacts were made of thinner glass than are mirrors today. Replacing a broken mirror usually necessitates finding an old mirror that will fit the space. And remember: whether selling or purchasing a compact, the fact that the mirror (or any other part) was replaced should be disclosed before the transaction.
Interested in furthering your knowledge of this popular collectible? The following resources will aid you in your quest.
Happy Collecting!
Books
"Collector's Encyclopedia of Compacts, Carry-Alls & Face Powder Boxes," by Laura M. Mueller Link to book on Amazon
The Art of Allure: Powder Compacts and Vanities of the 19th, 20th and 21st Centuries from the Collection of Noelle Soren (April 3– May 23, 2004) Link to site
Catalogue of exhibition includes trademarks, pictures, history, glossary, and bibliography.
Michele Alice is AuctionBytes-Update Contributing Editor. Michele is a freelance writer in the Berkshire mountains of Massachusetts. She collects books, science fiction memorabilia and more! Email her at makalice @ adelphia.net eBay ID: Malice9
